How to Make Caesar Salad 101

Caesar Cardini is credited for creating the famous Caesar salad. Find out how to prepare this restaurant staple at home.

Each ingredient in a Caesar salad has its own unique contribution to the final product. The sharp Parmesan cheese, the salty anchovies, the tang of fresh lemon juice, the spiciness of garlic and the crunchy texture of the romaine lettuce create a medley of flavors that have appealed to countless North Americans who have sampled this salad as least once in a lifetime. To top it all off, Caesar salad wouldn't be complete without the crusty croutons that add the finishing touch to this composed salad.

The origins of Caesar salad is somewhat peculiar. Caesar salad shares no historical significance to the great Julius Caesar, although it's tempting to think so. The salad actually was named after Caesar Cardini, who devised it in his restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico in 1924. History suggests that Cardini put together this salad when he realized one night that he had nothing in his kitchen to serve his hungry diners except for some romaine lettuce, eggs, stale bread and cheese. Not wanting to disappoint, Cardini created a composed salad on the spot, and the Caesar salad was born.

This restaurant staple can easily be made at home. For the best flavors, use only the freshest ingredients possible. Even the croutons should be made with fresh, not stale, bread.

RECIPES

Homemade Caesar Salad

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients:

• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 anchovy fillets
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1/3 cup vegetable oil
• 2 heads romaine lettuce, inner leaves washed and dried well
• 1 recipe Croutons (recipe follows)
• 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional cheese for garnish

Directions:

1. Place the garlic, anchovy fillets and salt in a large salad bowl. Using a fork, mash the garlic, anchovy fillets and salt together to form a paste. Whisk in the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard and egg yolk. Gradually whisk in the vegetable oil.
2. Tear the romaine lettuce leaves into 1 1/2-inch to 2-inch pieces. Add the croutons, romaine and cheese to the bowl. Toss well. Garnish with additional grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

Note: Raw eggs should be not be used in food prepared for babies, the elderly, pregnant women, young children or anyone whose immune system is compromised.

Croutons

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 10-inch loaf Italian bread, crusts removed, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a large bowl, whisk together the butter and olive oil. Add the bread cubes, and toss to coat. Add salt and pepper; toss to combine.
2. Spread the bread cubes in an even layer on a baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven, let cool and set aside until ready to use.

Créme Vanilla Sauce

CRÉME VANILLA SAUCE

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups milk
• 1 vanilla bean, scraped of seeds or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 egg yolks
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

Directions:

1. Boil the milk with the vanilla bean seeds and pod (do not add vanilla extract here). With a hand-held electric mixer, beat the sugar into the egg yolks until thick and fluffy. Beat in the cornstarch. Remove and discard vanilla bean pod. Add boiled milk in dribbles while beating at low speed in an electric mixer.
2. Transfer the mixture to a heavy-bottomed nonreactive saucepan. Set over low heat and, stirring constantly, cook until the sauce thickens into a light, creamy mixture. Do not simmer or the egg yolks will curdle.
3. Remove the sauce from the heat (add the vanilla extract if the vanilla bean was not used), whisk for a moment, and strain through a fine sieve. After cooling, cover the surface of the sauce with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

All-Purpose Kitchen Recipes: Blend a Batch of Homemade Curry Powder and Prepare Yogurt Cheese

Turn to these kitchen timesavers to help you add flavor and interest to your dishes. Find out how to make your own curry powder, yogurt cheese and preserved lemons.

Sometimes when you're in the kitchen, you feel the urge to "cook ahead." If it's the holiday season, you may prepare pie crusts in advance. Or even if you're planning dinner and are streamlining your preparation schedule, you may cut up vegetables or prepare a basting sauce for your barbecue. These little timesavers work well, especially when you're trying to fit everything into your busy schedule. If you do find yourself with a few moments to spare in the kitchen, why not prepare one of the three recipes below?

Curry powder adds zip and zing to almost any dish, but have you ever tried preparing your own? By toasting and grinding a fragrant mixture of spices yourself, you'll have a more complex and flavorful curry powder than the store-bought version. If you like cream cheese, you may want to try yogurt cheese.

Yogurt cheese is a unusual but delicious alternative to cream cheese. You can season it with herbs and pepper for serving with crackers as an appetizer, or with honey and fresh berries for dessert.

Preserved lemons are easy to make, and they add a slightly salty, tangy taste to salads, fish and chicken dishes.

Curry Powder
Makes about 2 tablespoons

• 2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds
• 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon whole fenugreek seeds
• 2 whole red chiles
• 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 8 curry leaves, fresh or dried
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1. In a small, cast-iron skillet, toast the coriander, cumin, mustard and fenugreek seeds over a medium-high flame until the spices become fragrant and begin to pop, about 2 minutes. Shake the pan frequently to prevent the spices from burning.
2. Pour the toasted spices into a spice grinder and add the chiles, peppercorns, curry leaves,ginger and turmeric. Grind until the spices are smooth. For best results, use the curry powder immediately or store it in an airtight container in a dark, cool place.

Sources: Indian coriander seed, yellow mustard seed, and fenugreek seed, $1.25 for each 3 1/2-ounce bag; cumin seed, Malabar black peppercorns, ground ginger, and turmeric, $1.75 for each 3 1/2-ounce bag; whole red chiles, $1.25 for 1 ounce, and fresh curry leaves, $1.25 a bunch, all from Kalustyan's 123 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016; 212-685-3451.

Yogurt Cheese
Makes about 1 2/3 cups

• 4 cups plain low-fat yogurt (1 quart)
• Fresh herbs (optional)
• Honey (optional)

Technique:

1. Dampen and wring out four layers of cheesecloth.
2. Lay the cheesecloth over a medium-sized mixing bowl.
3. Spoon the yogurt into the center of the cheesecloth.
4. Tie the corners of the cheesecloth around a spoon and rest the spoon across the bowl, suspending the yogurt over the bottom of the bowl.
5. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours. The liquid will drain away from the cheesecloth sack, leaving you with yogurt cheese in the cheesecloth sack.
6. Remove the yogurt from the cheesecloth, and serve, seasoned with herbs or flavored with honey, if desired.

Preserved Lemons
Makes 16 wedges

• 2 lemons
• 1/4 cup kosher salt
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice or enough to cover lemon wedges
• Olive oil (optional)

Technique:

1. Scrub and dry the lemons. Cut each into eight wedges. Mix together the salt and sugar in a small bowl. Pour the salt mixture into a pint jar with a nonreactive lid, pack in the lemon wedges, and cover the wedges completely with lemon juice.
2. Store the jar in a cool, dark place for 1 week. Shake the jar every day in order to distribute the salt and juice mixture over the lemon wedges.
3. To use the preserved lemons, remove the lemons from the jar and rinse them under cold running water, removing and discarding the pulp. Slice or chop the rind according to your recipe. After opening the jar, refrigerate the unused preserved lemons in their pickling liquid in the jar. You can also rinse the preserved lemons, remove the pulp and pack them in a jar covered with olive oil.

Rich Coffee Tart

Rich Coffee Tart

Discover the art of French pastry and learn how to bake a majestic Rich Coffee Tart, and discover the secret to the lightest Sweet Pastry Crust. Plus, answers to your questions about crystallized ginger.

Preserving Herbs with Salt

If the advent of winter leaves you longing for fresh herbs, this Tuscan technique will preserve plenty of basil, rosemary and sage--even as snow covers your garden. Alternate half-inch layers of herbs in a covered glass container, beginning and ending with coarse salt. The salt absorbs mold-breeding moisture and stalls the action of enzymes that turn fresh herbs brown. Refrigerate. Before using, rinse the herbs with water, and pat dry. You'll be savoring the flavors of August well into December.

Kitchen Spice Grinder

Toast and grind your own spices in a spice grinder to assure the freshest, most potent flavors.

Coffee grinder for grinding fresh spices.

Coffee beans and spices have something in common: Since their delicate aromatic oils break down quickly, they taste their best when freshly ground minutes before use. However, to keep this morning's coffee from tasting like last night's curry, you might want to consider this simple solution: two grinders. Designate one for coffee and the other for spices; label each accordingly to avoid confusion.

To keep your grinders in top condition, remove loose grounds and residue with a pastry brush. Place a large piece of soft bread in the bowl of the grinder, grind thoroughly, and remove the oil-absorbing bread crumbs.

SOURCES
Cuisinart coffee grinder
(DCG-20), $30

800-726-0190

Available at local retailers

Making Homemade Vanilla Extract

For the best flavor in all your baked goods, homemade vanilla extract is incomparable. Learn how to make your own batch of vanilla extract.

Vanilla Extract

The smooth flavor of vanilla in baked goods can be as soothing to the tongue as aloe is to sunburned skin. Homemade vanilla extract makes a great present, especially for someone who has a penchant for baking.

Vanilla bean pods are the product of an orchid species, Vanilla planifolia. These orchid varieties are native to areas of Mexico, Madagascar, Java and Tahiti. In order for the orchid to produce its edible treasure, the vanilla bean pod, the plant must flower and the flower must be pollinated. However, the flower only opens once each year; the only known animal pollinators are certain species of ants, hummingbirds and the Melipona bee. To make pure vanilla is a laborious and highly exacting process. The vanilla beans must ripen or cure from anywhere between three and six months. During this time period, the vanilla bean pods shrink tremendously--about one-quarter of their length before curing. They also dry, losing about 85 percent of their moisture content, and intesify their signature aroma.

Making your own vanilla extract isn't difficult. You'll need vanilla beans, which you can obtain from specialty food stores or in some large supermarkets. First, run the dull side of a knife up and down the vanilla beans several times to loosen the seeds. Next, split the beans in half lengthwise and place them inside a bottle of bourbon, vodka or some other similar flavored liquor. For best results, use the best liquor you can find. Seal the bottle and place it in a cool, dark place for five to six months. During this infusion stage, give the jar a shake every few months to redistribute the vanilla bean seeds in the liquid. As the months pass, the liquor will assume the flavor of the vanilla bean seeds. If you're using vodka or other similar clear liquor, the color will darken during the aging process. After six months, the vanilla extract is ready to use. Since you'll only need small amounts of vanilla extract in recipes, it's best to transfer the vanilla extract into small containers. Clean and sterilize small bottles or jars with lids, and, using a canning funnel, fill the bottles or jars with the vanilla extract. To store, keep vanilla extract tightly covered in a cool, dark place.

Preserved Lemons in Oil

Learn how to prepare Preserved Lemons in Oil with Chef Jody Denton of the Restaurant LuLu in San Francisco, California.

Preserved lemons are an essential ingredient in Moroccan cuisine. You can purchase preserved lemons in oil in specialty shops, but they are just as easy to make at home.

Chef Jody Denton of the Restaurant LuLu in San Francisco, California, shares his recipe for Preserved Lemons in Oil.

RECIPE
Preserved Lemons in Oil
Makes about 1 cup

Ingredients:

• 3 lemons
• 1 tablespoon coarse salt
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil.

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Scrub the lemons well under running water. Cut off ends of the lemons. Cut lemons into 1/4-inch-thick slices and remove the seeds.
2. In a 3-quart rectangular baking dish, toss the lemon slices with the salt. Arrange the lemon slices in a single layer in the baking dish. Pour lemon juice over the slices. Cover and bake for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until the lemons are slightly dry and the skin is tender, stirring lemon slices around in baking dish occasionally.
3. Remove lemons from oven and let cool completely. Transfer lemon slices and roasting juices to an airtight container. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 3 days.
4. To make preserved lemons in oil, transfer lemon pieces and juices to the bowl of a food processor. Cover and process until the mixture is finely chopped. Add olive oil to lemon mixture; cover and blend just until the oil is combined. Store, uncovered, up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

SPECIAL THANKS
Jody Denton

Restaurant LuLu
816 Folsom Street
San Francisco, CA 94107
415-495-5775
Fax: 415-495-7810

Toasted Pumpkin Seeds Recipe



Michael displays a tray of pumpkin seeds.



When eaten out of hand, pumpkin seeds make a healthy, flavorful snack. Learn how to turn the remnants of pumpkin carving into a seasonal treat.

Full of vitamins A and C, pumpkin seeds are nutritious. They don't require much but a sprinkling of salt to bring out their natural nutty flavor. If your pumpkin is particularly striking, you may choose to save some seeds for planting in the garden in the spring; the rest of the seeds can be turned into a delectable snack. After you've finished carving out your pumpkin, separate the seeds from the pulp and spread the seeds in one layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Discard any seeds that appear shriveled or pitted. Avoid the temptation to wash the seeds with water--washing will only take away the inherent flavor from the seeds. Sprinkle the pumpkin seeds lightly with coarse salt or, for a sweet alternative, use granulated sugar. Place the pumpkin seeds in a 350 degree F. oven for 5 to 10 minutes. The fragrance of the toasted seeds will indicate when they're ready to be removed from the oven. Let cool and enjoy a tasty autumnal snack.

Homemade Chicken Stock

This recipe makes more than you'll need for many recipes, but the stock can be frozen for up to five months. The gelatin from the chicken bones is released during the long cooking time yielding a rich, flavorful stock.

HOMEMADE CHICKEN STOCK
Makes 8 Cups

Ingredients:

• 8 whole black peppercorns
• 4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 6 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1 large onion, washed, cut into thirds
• 3 carrots, scrubbed, cut into thirds
• 2 stalks celery, leaves attached, cut into thirds
• 1 four-pound chicken, cut into 6 pieces
• 4 pounds bony chicken parts (backs, necks and wings)
• 12 cups water

Directions:

1. Place the peppercorns, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, onion, carrots, celery, whole chicken, chicken backs, necks and wings into a large stockpot. Add water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer and cook for 50 minutes. The liquid should just bubble up to the surface. A skin will form on the surface of the liquid; skim off the skin with a slotted spoon and discard it. Repeat the skimming process as needed during cooking. After 50 minutes, remove the chicken from the pot and set the chicken aside until it is cool enough to handle.
2. Remove the meat from the chicken bones, set the cooked chicken meat aside and return the bones to the stockpot. Shred the chicken meat and refrigerate until ready to use.
3. Continue simmering the stock, on the lowest heat possible, for 3 1/2 hours, skimming any skin from the surface of the stock as needed. The chicken bones will begin to disintegrate. Strain the stock through a sieve lined with a layer of cheesecloth into a very large bowl. Discard the solids. Place the bowl in an ice bath and let the stock cool to room temperature. Divide the stock into airtight containers. The stock may be refrigerated for 4 days or frozen for 5 months. Refrigerate for at least 10 hours or overnight. If storing, leave the fat layer on top to seal the stock. Before using, remove the fat layer that collects on the surface of the stock. 

Flavored Whipped Cream

Keeping whipped cream stiff can be a challenge. Find out how to thicken and add flavor to whipped cream with honey or melted quince jelly.

Just like a toddler, whipped cream has a tendency to be troublesome. Sometimes it cooperates with you, forming fantastic stiff peaks. Other times, it stubbornly throws a wrench in your plans, refusing to fluff up and whip itself into proper form. But like a baby sound asleep, whipped cream is a sight to behold because of its sweet nature.

One day, I was in the kitchen, and I couldn't find any sugar to sweeten some whipped cream. So, I decided to use honey instead. Later, with a second batch, I used melted quince jelly. Both of these items added sweetness to the cream, but the jelly provided an additional component. The high pectin content in the jelly acted as a thickener, keeping the whipped cream stiff for hours. Another way to increase your success of making whipped cream is to place the bowl and whisk (or mixer beaters) in the freezer for 20 minutes. Then, when you whip the cream, the fat molecules around the bubbles of air in the beaten cream will stay strong, holding up the foam.

RECIPE
Flavored Whipped Cream
Makes 2 cups

Ingredients:

• 1 pint heavy cream, chilled
• 1 tablespoon buckwheat honey, or
• 3 1/2 tablespoons quince jelly, melted

Directions:

1. In a chilled mixing bowl, whip the heavy cream with a balloon whisk until stiff. Alternatively, whip the cream in the chilled bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. If using quince jelly, gently melt it in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Fold the sweetener of your choice into the whipped cream. Serve immediately.
2. Save any remaining cream by transferring it into a sieve lined with two layers of cheesecloth. Place the sieve over a bowl, cover the bowl and sieve tightly with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Royal Icing

Royal Icing
Makes About 2 1/2 Cups

• 4 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
• 6 tablespoons water
• 3 tablespoons meringue powder

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the sugar, water and meringue powder on low speed until all ingredients are moistened, scraping sides of the bowl constantly. Beat on medium-high speed for about 7 to 10 minutes or until icing is thick and glossy. Use immediately or cover tightly with plastic wrap.

Note: Icing will soften upon standing. If necessary, beat the icing again with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until it thickens.

Pastry for a Double-Crust Pie

Pastry for a Double-Crust Pie

Makes Enough for 2 Piecrusts

• 2 cups plus 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 1/4 cup ice water

1. In a bowl, stir together the flour, salt and sugar. Using a pastry blender, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until the pieces are the size of small peas. (If you have a food processor, you can use it to pulse the dry ingredients together first. Once you add the butter, pulse for about 20 seconds until the mixture resembles coarse meal.)
2. Add 1/4 cup ice water over the flour mixture, tossing with a fork until all of the dough is moistened. Depending on the humidity at the time you're making it, you may need to add more water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time. You don't want a big sopping wet ball of dough. Just as soon as the pie crust comes together in the bowl (much like bread dough), stop adding water. (If you're using your food processor, you can add the 1/4 cup ice water in a slow steady stream through the feed tube with the machine running. Process just until the dough holds together. Do not process any longer than 30 seconds.)
3. Turn the dough out onto a flat round on a piece of plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour before using.

Beef Broth

Beef Broth
The butcher can cut veal bones into small pieces for you. This beef broth is great as a base for quick, homemade soups any time.

Makes About 7 Cups

• 3 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
• 2 sprigs fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 5 whole black peppercorns
• 2 pounds beef shank cross cuts
• 2 pounds veal bones, cut into small pieces
• 1 small onion, peeled and quartered
• 1 medium carrot, cut into thirds
• 1 medium celery stalk with leaves attached, cut into thirds
• 1 cup dry red wine

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Tie the parsley, thyme, oregano, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a piece of cheesecloth to make a seasoning packet. Set aside.
2. Arrange the beef shank, veal bones, onion, carrot, and celery in an even layer in a large roasting pan. Roast, turning ingredients every 20 minutes, until the vegetables and the bones are deep brown in color, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the meat, bones, and vegetables to a large Dutch oven, and set aside. Pour off the fat from the roasting pan, and discard. Place the roasting pan over medium heat on the stove. Add the red wine, and stir, using a wooden spoon to loosen any browned material from the bottom of the pan; boil the mixture until the wine becomes reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Pour the mixture into the Dutch oven.
3. Add 6 cups cold water to the Dutch oven, or more if needed to cover bones. Do not reduce amount of water; cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer so that bubbles only occasionally rise to the surface. Add the reserved seasoning packet. Skim foam from the broth's surface. Continue to simmer the broth over low heat for 3 hours. During simmering, a foam will form on the surface of the liquid; skim off with a slotted spoon. Repeat skimming as needed. Add water if at any time the level at the surface of the broth drops below the bones.

Homemade Polenta

Homemade Polenta

• 4 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock
• 1 cup polenta (coarsely ground yellow cornmeal)
• 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. In a large saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil and very slowly add the polenta, whisking constantly with a wire whisk. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the spoon can stand up straight by itself in the mixture, about 15-18 minutes. When the polenta is done, stir in the salt and butter. Pour the polenta into a lightly buttered baking dish. Bake until firm, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven. Let the polenta cool before using or refrigerate it overnight before using.

Vegetable Broth

For those readers who've requested the Vegetable Broth recipe, here it is. This will make 8 cups of stock.

Vegetable Broth

• 6 large carrots, washed and cut into large pieces
• 1 head of garlic, unpeeled
• 3 medium onions, peeled and quartered
• 4 turnips, washed and cut into large pieces
• 4 leeks, washed and cut into large pieces
• 1 bunch fresh thyme leaves
• 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/2 bunch fresh oregano
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and quartered
• 4 celery stalks, cut into large pieces
• 5 quarts water

In a large, heavy stockpot, add the carrots, garlic, onions, turnips, leeks, thyme, parsley, oregano, bay leaf, apples and celery. Pour the water over the vegetables and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 2 1/4 hours.
Strain and discard the cooked vegetables. Continue cooking over medium heat until the mixture is reduced to 2 quarts, which will take about 1 more hour.

Roasted Garlic

Garlic is indispensable to most professional chefs. Sharp and spicy when used raw, it turns almost nutty when sauteed. When roasted, garlic becomes sweet and mild and can take on many different personalities. Roasting garlic is a simple process; you'll enjoy caramelized cloves that are as soft as butter. Roasted garlic cloves are delicious when spread on toasted bread, on top of grilled meat or fish and as a flavoring for sauces.

Roasted Garlic

• 6 to 8 heads of garlic
• Olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• Juice of one lemon (if you want to store the roasted garlic)
• Fresh parsley, if desired

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Place the garlic bulbs in a baking dish; drizzle with olive oil. Spinkle the bulbs generously with salt and pepper.
2. Place the baking dish in the center of the oven; roast the garlic heads until they are soft when poked with the point of a sharp knife, about 1 hour.
3. Cut off the tops of the garlic heads and squeeze out the soft cloves from their papery shells. Use immediately, or if you plan to store the roasted garlic, squeeze the garlic cloves into a jar; cover the jar with olive oil and add lemon juice on top of the cloves. Flavor with fresh parsley, if desired. Seal the jar and store in the refrigerator, tightly covered. The roasted cloves will last about ten days if kept in the refrigerator this way.

Fluffy Vanilla Buttercream Icing

This buttercream holds its shape particularly well, making it good for decorating. If the buttercream becomes soft while piping, stir it over an ice-water bath until it stiffens. It can be made ahead and kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 2 days. However, you must rewhip the buttercream before spreading it; let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes to soften lightly, then transfer to an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until the buttercream is smooth and spreadable. It will go through a curdle-like stage; keep beating. (You can also beat the buttercream vigorously with a rubber spatula if you don't have an electric mixer.)

Makes 3 1/2 Cups, Enough for One 2- to 3-Layer Cake or About 2 Dozen Cupcakes

Ingredients:

• 6 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
• 3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 1/4 cup vegetable shortening
• 6 to 8 tablespoons milk
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Directions:

1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 3 cups of the confectioners' sugar, butter, vegetable shortening, 4 tablespoons milk and the vanilla extract until smooth, about 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Add the remaining confectioners' sugar; beat until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Add the remaining milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, to the mixture, as needed, to achieve a good spreading consistency.

Winter Pantry

A pantry is more than just a storage space for food. A well-stocked pantry can give a sense of order, peace and bounty to a home. The ingredients stored there can also inspire a home cook to create new recipes using favorite ingredients. And, the pantry provides the answer to that eternal question, "What to have for dinner?"

The wealth of high-quality packaged foods available in stores makes it easy to keep your pantry full. Grains, such as pastas, are pantry staples. These grains include couscous, a tiny grain semolina pasta that cooks in virtually a few minutes, and arborio rice, a starchy creamy Italian rice that's traditionally used in risotto.

Other ingredients, like dried mushrooms, go a long way toward adding rich, deep flavor to almost any dish. Items such as capers, olives, dried chiles, anchovies, dried tomatoes, dried cheeses and canned tuna can also pack a punch per ounce, adding fabulous flavor to quick-cook dishes.

Except for summertimes, when tomatoes are flesh and flavorful, canned tomatoes are the better choice. There are lesser-known brands available that have superior texture and flavor, including those imported from the San Marzano region of Italy. Pomi-brand, sold in heat-sealed paper packages, and organic tomatoes, sold in lead-free, enamel-lined cans, are some examples.

So, the next time you have unexpected dinner guests, just open up the doors to your pantry. Experiment with your pantry items. You'll find that, just like old friends, they're reliable and comforting.
Vinegars

PANTRY LIST

• White-wine vinegar
• Red-wine vinegar
• Champagne vinegar
• Sherry vinegar
• Balsamic vinegar

Oils

• Grape-seed oil
• Extra-virgin olive oil

Canned and bottled items

• Dijon mustard
• Chestnuts
• Mango-and-ginger chutney
• Hoisin sauce
• Wasabi powder
• Pure maple syrup
• Lavender honey
• Capers
• Olive paste
• Oil-cured black olives
• Kalamata olives
• Morello cherries
• Gherkin pickles
• Irish oatmeal
• Thai pepper jelly
• Thai peanut sauce
• Pure vanilla extract
• Pickled asparagus
• Preserved lemons
• Homemade preserves
• Whole peeled tomatoes
• Pomi strained tomatoes
• Dried tomatoes in olive oil
• Canned tomato paste
• Anchovies
• Canned tuna

Dry goods

• Dried morel mushrooms
• Dried porcini mushrooms
• Dried cranberries
• Dried blueberries
• Dried apples
• Dried pears
• Prunes
• Dried arbol chiles
• Cornmeal
• Israeli couscous
• Yellow and green split peas
• French green lentils
• Pine nuts
• Barley
• Red lentils
• Grits
• Basmati rice
• Arborio rice
• Red-pepper flakes
• Chocolate chips

Pasta

• Cannelloni
• Penne
• Spaghetti
• Tricolor fusilli
• Quick-cooking polenta
• Soba noodles

Fresh Food that keeps for weeks

• Garlic
• Red and white potatoes
• Red and yellow onions
• Butternut and acorn squash

Cobblers, Crisps, Slumps and More

What does a betty, a buckle, a cobbler, a crisp, a slump and a grunt have in common? They're all members of the "clump cake" family, a broad category of desserts combining fruit with pastry, batter or crumbly streusel dough. Here are just a few explanations of some of these family members:

• Betty-Almost everyone has heard of apple brown betty. A betty is a fruit dessert made by topping fruit with browned, buttered bread crumbs.
• Buckle-This cake is made with fruit that's either sprinkled on top of the batter before baking or incorporated into the batter. During baking the fruit sinks into the cake (or "buckles") creating a tasty interior.
• Cobbler-The cobbler takes its name from the biscuit topping that's placed on top of the fruit; when baked, the topping resembles round, flat cobblestones.
• Crisp-In this dessert, fruit is topped with a loose crumb topping, consisting of flour, oatmeal, breadcrumbs or graham crackers.
• Grunt-If you've ever had a fruit pudding, you've tasted a grunt in your life. A grunt has the consistency of a thick pudding and is made by cooking fruit on top of the stove and covering it with a rolled biscuit dough. In England, steamed puddings are a traditional dessert. Early American settlers tried to duplicate this English treat, improvising on the dessert. The term grunt refers to the sound the fruit makes when it's heated. In New England, this dessert is often referred to as a "slump."